Fogo

Fogo is a dormant volcanic island that rises imperiously out of the Atlantic Ocean to form a stunning synthesis of landscapes. Meaning fire in Portuguese, from its origins to this day it is an island that is dominated by its awesome volcano, Pico de Fogo, which at a height of 3,000m above sea-level is Cape Verde's highest peak.

Its topography is a wonderful blend of the humid fertile areas of the north to arid landscapes of the south. The great volcano has given rise to verdant valleys which make for wonderful trekking terrain for those who come here for an assault on Pico de Fogo.

This fourth largest of the Cape Verde islands rose from the ocean in a great volcanic eruption hundreds of thousands of years ago and is the only one of the islands where there has been a volcanic eruption since the archipelago was settled in the 15th century.

The last eruption of this great volcano took place in 1995 when lava spewed some 400m and thick ash some 5km into the sky. To this day the heat can be felt on the rockface as it vents from the centre of the earth. In that eruption twelve years ago, the small village of Boca Fonte was razed but, thankfully, had been evacuated in time. On only one occasion was the island population forced to flee, after the great eruption of 1680 when ash-fall covered its fertile agricultural lands, rendering them barren for a period.

Pocketed away at the base of this domineering mountain is the quaint village of Chã das Caldeiras, which was automatically evacuated during eruptions, whether the threat was perceived to be big or small. This isolated village's fertile vineyards bathe in the tropical island sunshine and provide some of Cape Verde's finest grapes, which are exported for wine production, as well as its wonderful coffee crops.

Some 37,500 people today live on the island, which is 476 square km in size - mid-range for Cape Verde's islands.

The volcanic mother mountain itself is one of the world's most jaw-dropping wonders, with its caldera - a volcanic feature in which the mountain collapses into itself - all of 9km wide. The hike to the summit takes around five hours - a local guide can be hired and is essential - with a two hour return journey. It also has a breach on the eastern rim and the central cone is 100m higher than its surrounding wall. Lava from the volcano has even reached the eastern coast of the island.

The capital, São Filipe, which developed on a cliff edge, is a short distance from the island's airport and recognised for its pristine streets, classic colonial homes and pretty squares. The success of agriculture on the island over generations is evidenced in São Filipe's colonial homes, which were built by wealthy farm owners using materials imported from Portugal and Africa. Some of the hotels here are renovated buildings from that period. The coastal town also has Pico de Fogo as a stunning backdrop and its small museum is also well worth a visit.

On the North West of the island the scenery alters again, this time to coffee, banana and orange plantations. There is also much to enjoy about the town of Salina de Sao Jorge, which has a natural swimming pool protected by black reefs. Alternatively, you can relax and bask in the tropical temperatures on the island's black sandy beaches. Many expect Fogo's tourism industry to flourish in the years ahead and with such a wonderful mixture of beauty and beast, it is no wonder.

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